I don't mind overfiring the burning drum for a short period, but prolonged would warp the door frame or pucker up the barrel. I too, burn hot enough that creosoting is a non-issue. So I ignore the actual three "zones" and use it more as general temp indicator of the exit flue. ![]() The thermometer I have is mounted after the second drum and in order to keep it in the "Burn zone" I would be overfiring the main drum. A single drum was not like that,I could close it down at night for a longer burn. I HAVE to leave it wide open, else I choke the stove too much. My double drum has a built in damper in between the two drums. ![]() The other fire is in the cookstove (I've got French Onion soup started for tonight) - with this fire, the key is to turn the oven off, get a hot fire going and get the chimney well warmed, then turn the oven on - it cruises with the draft mostly closed and the damper turned down about 35% (35% closed) - it's a leaky stove (tho wonderful) and behaves much differently than an airtight - damper stays open till all is well warmed up. Right now I have two fires going - the main heating stove (Jotel #4) is in cruise mode, with the draft at 100% and the damper at 20% (80% closed) - interestingly, the damper on this stove is built in, right before it hooks to the stovepipe - shifted to the left, it will close 100% - there is a detent at full open, and to the right, a detent at 50% shut and a detent at 80% shut - to the left it will not close off totally. ![]() If you have a good drafting chimney, the damper is very useful - I burn into isulated SS chimneys - they heat up fast and draft well - creosote is not an issue.
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